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Vegetarian

Minestrone Soup

Minestrone Soup

Two decisions separate a minestrone worth making from a pot of vegetables in broth. Cook the soffritto slowly enough that the onion, carrot and celery actually sweeten, and cook the pasta in its own pot so it does not turn to mush by tomorrow lunchtime. Everything else in this soup is forgiving.

The soffritto is the whole soup

Eight minutes over medium heat, not three. You want the onion translucent and the carrot edges softening, with no browning and no rush. This is the stage where the soup gets its sweetness, and there is nothing later that puts it back if you skip it.

Dice everything to roughly the same size, about half a centimetre. I used to eyeball this and ended up with carrot still crunchy after twenty-five minutes of simmering while the celery had vanished entirely.

Garlic goes in last and gets one minute, no more. Burnt garlic is bitter and it carries right through a six-cup pot.

Cook the pasta in a separate pot

Almost every minestrone recipe tells you to tip the pasta straight into the soup. It works for the first bowl and ruins every bowl after that. Pasta sitting in hot broth keeps absorbing, so by the next day you have a thick vegetable porridge with bloated shells in it.

Boil the ditalini in salted water, drain it, and spoon it into the bowls. Ladle soup over the top. The leftovers then reheat as soup, which is what you wanted.

If you are eating the whole pot in one sitting, ignore me and cook it in the broth — you get a little starch thickening as a bonus. I almost never am.

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil — for building the base.
  • 1 onion, diced — the foundation of the soup.
  • 2 carrots, diced — for sweetness and body.
  • 2 celery stalks, diced — the third piece of the soffritto.
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced — for savory depth.
  • 1 zucchini, diced — a tender vegetable that cooks quickly.
  • One 14-ounce can diced tomatoes — juices included.
  • One 15-ounce can cannellini beans — drained and rinsed.
  • 6 cups vegetable broth — the liquid base of the soup.
  • 1 cup small pasta — ditalini or small shells, boiled separately.
  • 2 cups chopped kale or spinach — stirred in at the end.
  • 1 teaspoon dried Italian herbs — oregano, basil and thyme in one.

Instructions

  1. Warm the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots and celery and cook for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and the onion turns translucent. Do not let them color.
  2. Stir in the garlic and dried Italian herbs and cook for one more minute, just until fragrant.
  3. Add the diced zucchini and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes so it begins to soften.
  4. Pour in the diced tomatoes with their juice and the vegetable broth. Scrape the bottom of the pot and bring the soup to a gentle boil.
  5. Add the drained beans, reduce to a steady simmer, and cook for about 15 minutes until the vegetables are fully tender.
  6. While the soup simmers, boil the pasta in a separate pot of salted water until just tender, usually 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.
  7. Stir the chopped kale or spinach into the soup and cook for a final 2 to 3 minutes, until wilted and bright green. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper.
  8. Spoon pasta into each bowl, ladle the hot soup over it, and finish with a drizzle of olive oil and grated Parmesan if you like.

When it tastes flat

Nine times out of ten it is salt, and the tenth time it is acid. Add a quarter teaspoon of salt, stir, wait thirty seconds, taste again. If it is still dull, a teaspoon of red wine vinegar off the heat sharpens the whole pot without anyone being able to name what you did.

A Parmesan rind dropped in with the broth is the other cheap fix. I keep the ends in a bag in the freezer and one goes into every pot of this. Fish it out before serving.

The soup keeps four days in the fridge and freezes well for three months, provided the pasta stayed out of it. Reheat gently — a hard boil turns the beans to paste. Serve it with rosemary focaccia for tearing, or make a double batch of soffritto and use half for creamy tomato soup later in the week. If you want the same weeknight comfort with meat in it, chicken noodle soup follows the identical separate-pasta logic.